Mountains? What mountains?

So, as it happens, we're apparently spending all our time in hostels with ample internet access.

Lured by the prospect of a "Dutch Oven" chicken feast, and encouraged by our first night of actual sleep in days (I honestly haven't really slept even close to a full night since leaving Toronto) we elected to stay an extra night in Furano and explore what it has to offer.

Firstly, for the cartologically inclined, our route of the past two days:

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Accurate, even including the Sapporo cycling road!

Anyway, today on our "day off" we decided on the advice of one of the hostel guys to ride our bikes up to Tokachidake Onsen which is about halfway up a nearby volcano.

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Plug that in to Bikely or something if you like - this was probably one of the steeper climbs I've ever encountered.


It started out simply enough, with a flat ride on a country road through fields of rice, wheat, and lavender flowers - Furano is apparently described as the "South of France of Japan" whatever that means, I've never been to France but the countryside was certainly pleasant.


Once we turned up the mountain however, it got a little tougher, as it was uphill for probably a full 18km. Granted, still through completely beautiful farmlands and forests.


The forests here are incredible - you're presented with walls of greenery on either side of the road, almost completely impenatrable. Strange, almost tropical birdcalls are a constant, and wildlife seems to be everywhere - we saw two foxes on the way up, one of which I needed to yell at repeatedly before he would screw off. (Cute little fellow, but sorry, I don't really feel like having to get a rabies shot here)

The top of the climb was just ridiculous - with grades going up to 14% - and it started pouring to top it off. However, we did indeed reach the Onsen (volcanic hot spring) at the top.

Onsens are fantastic - picture a steaming hot bath fed by geothermically heated water, with a view of the valley below. Great, right? All we had to do to experience it (aside from the gruelling hill climb) was decipher the etiquette behind using one, which involved conquering a fear of ubiquitous male nudity. A helpful primer: here
Sorry, no photographs of naked dudes :(

Tomorrow we set out again, striking North and West, aiming for the town of Rumoi on the coast of the Sea of Japan. Will we stop for three days at a hostel because we're tired and dirty? Probably! Until then, the roasted chicken awaits...