Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Hokkaido, home of the world's worst cycling weather

At a time when apparently the entire Northern hemisphere is complaining about how abnormally hot and sunny it is, here in Hokkaido we're having a different experience. I have, in fact, determined what the worst possible weather conditions for cycling are - here they are in point form:
-First, there must be a headwind. As I've stated, the only noticeable tailwind we've experienced in a full month cycling all the way around Hokkaido lasted one morning.
-Second, it needs to be cloudy. Cloudy enough to obscure the clear blue sky, and certainly cloudy enough to hide any nearby beautiful mountain peaks that might make the ride memorable.
-Third, and this is what makes it so nefarious - the sun must come out for at least two hours. The sky does not clear, mind you, but rather the sun burns a hole in the clouds above you for just long enough to make your pass ascent murderously hot, and enough for a greasy sunscreen application to be necessary to avoid a burn.

Today, on our last day of riding on Hokkaido, we fittingly experienced this day a (hopefully) final time. Bonus: Packing the tent after a full night of rain, and arriving in Hakodate in yet another downpour!


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Overtly negative tone aside, we're actually doing fine. We even had one pleasant day of riding to show for the past 4 - a ride over the shoulder of Mt. Yotei:


as well as a very scenic ride around Lake Toya, with a lakeside camping spot to boot:


We're once again huddled in a hostel, wondering where to go next. The view from our room:


I'm not sure exactly how long we'll be here - a few days at least - nor do I know exactly where we're headed next. Somewhere south. Once the rain stops. (Sometime in the next week, please?)

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